Eye Creams

Why hello! Man, Im so sorry for being a little creep, hiding in the corner.. guess theres been so much more going on in oz than I had planned and with all the settling in.. I just have been raped of all drive for my fav thing in the world and thats this blog!!

So apologies for the halt in production, so to speak.. but after all thats going on with me- Ive been moved to the MAC PRO store on Chapel St which is really rad and then we have moved into our own digs FINALLY so thats been a mission setting up all our stuff again! On top of all that, freelance has been going gang busters! Having lots of fun with many a pretty bride, fiancee and lady with their special day..

With PRO Ive been lucky enough to do my first Logies makeup and my first Miss World contestant.. Ill put some photos up as soon as they come to me!

But! With all this fuss, the reason Im back on is because y'all have been on my back about eye creams!! SOOOO many of my clients ask about them.. is it necessary? are they worth the money? which one does what? what do I need to do with it? So I thought.. let me get onto it and blog about it!!

Its one massive thing Ive noticed since coming back to oz.. how textured the aussie lass' eye area is. Everyones great with getting on down with face creams, cleansers and serums but not so much the eye creams. And I have to say- this is the one area women should be focusing on the most! You have to remember that the skin in and around the eye is exceptionally delicate.. and with the skin being so thin, fine and soft it has a much different way of acting then the rest of our skin.

With all the sun and all the laughs we have in our life, the expressions we show on our face everyday eventually have a "scarring" effect on the skin (we know these as god damn wrinkles..). So everytime we squint, scowl, laugh or cry.. our skin in a microscopic way is getting a flogging...

So lets talk about the different problems women have with their eyes....

DARK CIRCLES

A massively big problem for most women with yellow based skin is the purple/blue tones under the eye. A really big problem for asians in particular. I have talked in previous posts about how to colour correct these but in this post its how we can combat the issue!!

With those with pink based skin you will find you get redder, more violet tones around the eyes. Whenever these tones are present it will make you look tired and run down- trust me-it happens to all! And when we look tired, it dont help you feel any more awake ;)

Dark circles and redness around the eye are cause by a number of factors- lack of sleep, poor nutritional habits, aging and skin pigmentation. For non-eyecream help the best advice I have is to place a cold compress on the eye like a cold cloth or a pack of frozen vegies.. or for a more "beauty treatment" feel- cold cucumber slices. Anything cold will constrict the blood vessels that have risen to the skin surface and make them less visible (thus removing redness!). Also use sunscreen around the eye to stop the sun increasing the shade of the pigmentation.

Best eye creams for dark cirles are:

CHEAP- Olay Eye regenerating cream (has niacinamide to help reduce discolouration) $25
REASONABLE- Estee Lauder Idealist illuminator $100
SPLURGE- Creme de la mer Eye Balm Intense $270

PUFFINESS

 

Puffiness is your bodys way of telling you that it cares kids- so dont punish it by hating it- just work out how to tell it that your ok! Your eyes become puffy when the skin feels its under attack (from lack of sleep etc) so fluid then fills the space to "protect" the eye. Your friends in combating this issue, is the good old trusty cold compress- again. But also CAFFEINE!!

 

Caffeine helps constrict the bloody vessels and telling them to chill the hell out!!

 

Best eye creams for puffiness:

 

CHEAP- Garnier Ultra Lift Anti Wrinkle Cream $15

REASONABLE- MAC's Fast Response Eye Cream $55

SPLURGE- Creme de la Mer The Eye Concentrate $350

 

WRINKLES & SAGGING SKIN

 

Oh, come on! Youre definately not the only one! Wrinkles are something we all have to watch kids. Its just gonna happen.. But, it can be slowed down- and that means sunscreen, suncreen, sunscreen!!

We need to keep the hydration and collagen levels in our skin up, so that when we squint or show expression the skin has the capacity to handle such movement!

 

Collagen is SO important for our skin and our bodies! Its the protein that serves a key structural component of connective tissue; the mesh that holds us together and the more collagen the more strength and resilience your skin has!!

 

CHEAP- Liquid Vitamin C (avail at health stores) and suncreen!! $20

REASONABLE- Nutrogena Anti Wrinkle Deep Wrinkle Eye Cream $32

SPLURGE- Lancome Paris Renergie Microlift Eye R.A.R.E. $135

 

 

Added notes... Those with dry skin.. get as much hydration into the skin as you can and go for the topical liquid vitamins on the eye! Vitamin C, E and A!

 

Phew!!

 

Well I hope this is the kind of information you were after ;)

 

YAY! heres to more and more posts from me.

 

Love you all xx

 

 

FACE & BODY

In a world of beauty products, piled high from counter to counter, no decision is easy. And I relate the task of hunting for a new foundation like going jeans shopping- post a 4kg gain... head spinningly confusing and nothing seems to fit.

But lucky me, I have had to learn  what are the questions you should ask, but more importantly what questions the ARTIST should ask. Here are some below...

1. What type of skin have you got? (dry, oily, dry-normal, oily-normal, dry-oily tzone)
2. How would you like the foundation to look? (dewy, matte or inbetween)
3. What kind of coverage are you after? (full, medium, sheer)
4. What are you currently using and what do you want to change about how it acts?

These questions will mean when you come to the decision of what foundation to choose, you know you have chosen one that fits you. Too many times do I see clients coming in confidently saying "My friend uses Studio Fix Fluid and she looks amazing. I want it!" Well, Im sorry to burst the bubble in which you had hoped that upon application, you too shall look like your model-looking, perfect skinned girlfriend.. but it doesnt work that way!

You may have completely different skin to your friend and so what looks good on her- not so much on you, unfortunately! She may answer the above questions very differently remember.

But! The purpose of this post was to RAVE about one particular foundation, which could solve your confused state of mind and knock out all the above questions... leading you to ask only this-
 "What shade of MAC's Face & Body foundation am I?"

Face & Body is the staple foundation in my kit. I use it on all skins, for all different effects, all different events and for all different ages. It doesnt complain (go cakey or make pores more visible), it's buildable, looks AMAZING on everyone and can give you a dewy effect or with a sweep of powder post application- can be turned matte.

So, next time you march forth to find your new saving grace, the product that hides your Monday-itis or covers your stressed out chin (you know the ones girls- hormonal pimples..ugh.) makes sure you set your sights for a MAC PRO store and beeline towards Face and Body. You'll love me, but maybe your hot friend wont. Now that she'll be wanting the skin your in.



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Lashes, through my eyes..

It seems like the rest of the world may be slowly coming aroud to MACs way of thinking! Its all about the lashes. I have to be honest, I wasnt that big a fan when I first started working on counter.. purely because Im more of an artist who loves to create on others, not necessarily on myself. Im kind of a natural girl. But of course, when you start having to wear so many looks, day in day out, you tend to get a little addicted to certain finishes a product may give.

And thats where lashes come into play. I think they seem daunting for most people, especially when you have to apply them yourself.. but get shown once and you know the score. It may take practice, but the look will make you want to perfect. Once on- WOW!

So, I think when you ask yourself what lashes would suit me, I get that its really daunting having to choose.. So lemme break it down for you. Always adjust the density of the lash to suit your own.

If you have naturally long lashes, which are quite fine- then go for a pair that are long and thick (to add volume throughout the lash), if you have no lashes or very fine/short ones, dont go too crazy, they need to look naturally pretty remember! If you have thick but short lashes, add a bit of length to improve the overall look of the lash..

Now onto eye shapes!

If you have small eyes:

You have to be careful.. if you have a heavy brow- you need to make sure the lashes arent too long, otherwise they will hit your hair line! Go for a pair that are not too winged and not too long. Make sure they are slightly longer towards the outer corner though, this will pull the eyeshape outwards.
Good to use:
Natural: #32
Smokey: #4
Dramatic: #3 or # 2


#3's

If you have round eyes;

Like me, if you have round eyes, you want to manipulate their shape so they look more almond. So go for a pair that wing out. My favourites are:
Natural: #4 or #20 for a slight flick at the ends..
Sexy: #36 or #12
Dramatic: #44




#36's

If you have Almond eyes:

Well firstly, I hate you. haha! When it comes to makeup- your eyes can work any look and any lash!
So go for gold.. its all about the look you want to create.
Natural: #7s are one of MACs most popular lash. They look weird on the plastic, but on theyre great.
Smokey: #36
Dramatic: #12


# 7's


If you have Asian Eyes:

I have so many asian clients that come in, wanting a beautiful lash but find it hard not knowing what will best suit them. The best lashes to go for are the shorter ones, so they dont hit too high on the brow. MAC lashes #31, #32 or #7s!


#31s

And then, after all is said and done and you still seem to be stuck- pop into MAC!

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Life warranty...

Whats the most annoying complaint you have about wearing makeup? Well given that I talk to hundreds of women a week and see first hand their issues..I think I may have it! The biggest complaint I get is how makeup wears. Issues so common as patchiness, breakthrough redness and makeup looking obvious on the skin are every womans problem.

The reasons for this are numerous but mostly because people are putting their makeup straight on top of moisturised skin. When you do this they become intermixed.. thus preventing the mosituriser to really penetrate into the skin and also, breaking down the foundation so it doesnt stick.

Makeup artists dont recommend primers as a gimmick. They do it because there is no reason why we would go to all the effort of making you look and feel beautiful, if its only going to wear off or not give you the effect you want. For most clients I work with, they require their makeup to last. If its due to the longevity of the event- a wedding (from early morning start to the end of the reception), a red carpet event, a long day shooting.. I could go on.. ;)

I have used so many primers, some I have hated, some I have liked but after so many recommendations from other artists I have been using Laura Mercier's Hydrating Primer for a fair while now. And it is amazing!



Having been really busy since coming back to Oz- with its hot, sticky climate, this has been a blessing. So again, remember to put emphasis on the preparation of your skin, rather than all of it on what your covering it with.

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ORANGE revisited!

Ok, so as predicted a year or so ago... Orange lips have been beyond huge these past few months.
Particularly in Australia, where the women like their makeup sheer, but their statement clear. Ha! That totally rhymed.

So, I wanted to extend on my previous Orange post, to push it further and to take it from just the statement orange lip and the pop of orange on the lid.. And I want to show you the vaired array of colour that allow you to wear this seasons hottest colour, regardless of how you want to wear it.

For those who love the nude lip, but get sick of the usual pink tones of a nude (ie.Myth).. then
Shy Girl has to be your new fav. I reach for this colour again and again and again for women that want to balance their smokey eye or block out their pink lips.

 Shy Girl

Also, another nude colour that I always like to wear, which is not as light as Shy Girl.. is Peachstock. Found only in MAC Pro Stores, this colour is so easy to wear and works with everything.

 Peachstock

For a little bit more colour, brighter, but not too hard to wear- Ravishing one lipstick that i tend to give as presents to everytone. Why? Because everytone loves it! Easy to wear to work, out for drinks, wherever!

 Ravishing

For more of a summer or brighter hit.. which you still can wear for a day event or for more for a pop of colour at night- this colour is definately for those wanting a bright lip, but may not want to do a standard orange Vegas Volt is incredible!



And of course, Morange is always the go to colour for those wanting the standard bright orange..



But.... go for other options Neon Orange from the Pro Store is just a wee bight brighter and then there is the Pro Longwear lip cream 'So Good' which will hold for a much longer time, but not dry your lip out or cause feathering like some others.

I want to also emphasise how amazing apricots are to use throughout your makeup looks. Seen alot through recent S/S12 shows.. soft blushes, washes of eyeshadows and apricots pressed into the lips, look amazing on so many skintones.



Jeremy Scott S/S12. Makeup by Val Garland



Preen S/S12. Makeup Val Garland

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November 2011 Update!

Hello guys!

Well, I hope you have missed my blogging as much as i have! Its been far too long between posting and for that, im sorry! Have finally got a trusty steed in which to ride me into the blogging sunset.. for now.. and whilst this bad boy isnt mine, Im going to make it work hard for my love! There has been so much good stuff going on in the world of makeup/fashion/music/art in the past 2 months since I had my computer last and I was in London!

What has been my most interesting change in my view of fashion and beauty has been the change in hemisphere... and given that so much of the trends are based/formed in the Northern hemisphere, when I moved to oz I am now living A/W 11-12 trends in Australia's S/S 11. So how to adapt.. for all the fashionistas here, simply follow S/S12 trends.. so ultimately.. if us aussies are really really onto trends- we can be a whole season ahead of the rest of the world, rather than one behind.

So! Trends.. The bright pops of colour are still lingering strongly in Australia, with so many of my clients here excitedly asking for a bright lip. Can I be honest- Im so bored!! This bright lip may be a big step forward for a normally natural and makeup shy aussie girl, but coming from London where my Arabic, Asian and African clients demand so much more from their makeup.. I cant help but feel a little uninspired.

There are a few though that do understand how to adapt a simple look and turn it into one that makes them stand out, for the right reasons from the rest of the pack! Rather than go for a bright lip colour, change it slightly.. make it super glossy... or ultra matte; wear dark purple/plummy colours
Eg.

For the slightly shy: MACs Rebel







For those wanting a sexier step up: MAC's Violetta (Pro Store only), Diva or the new christmas 'Glitter and Ice' 2012 lipstick What Joy!



The above picture is also a perfect example at how texture can change the look of your makeup. With the above left being a matte lipstick (Diva) and the above right, a glossy colour (HangUp or a matte with gloss on top)

And for the more hardcore, who love to push makeup boundaries: Mac's Cyber, Film Noir or my fav.. Nightmoth Lip pencil all over the lip.


Photo: Temptalia



Lip above is done by lining the lip with Nightmoth lipliner (my fav!), filling in with blacktrack and then hitting highlight areas (cupids bow and centre of lip) with pink Bronze pigment. Lara Brewster, you genius..

Other trends are the bright orange lip (please read post, that will follow this..), heavily contoured creaselines and disconnected liners. I have been loving the disconnected liners for a while now, and have been estatic to see some amazing high profile covers using such a strong look. The best Ive ever seen though, was actually by a fellow artists and amazing illustrator Lara Brewster. Below is a random creative half an hour she spent with fellow MAc artist Mel. The talent of her work in rediculous.. if you're in London, do look her up!

I also have attached a strong black lip above, she did on me a few days before I left MAC in London for good.. shes such an inspiration for me. Miss her to bits!!



 Gaga, always the face for the most awesome makeup...always ahead of her time, has been wearing such makeup for some time now. Below are some examples of heavily contoured creaselines that look amazing on just about everyone..

 

   


To do it, simply choose a matte nude colour eg MAC's Brule, Blanc Type etc, apply over the top of a prepared lid (paintpot first!!), then using the #217 blending brush, apply a strong flat matte brown/black into the crease. Making sure you blend it perfectly, to assure a flawless finish!!

I could go for years, happy to be back!

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Morrocan Hair Oil

                       

I like to dye my hair. So what? But in this overly expensive addiction I have destroyed my hair. What should be down to my ankles, my hair is always restricted to shoulders blade length due to pressure from my hairdresser to chop of the dead bits. Gggrrrr!!!

But when I arrived at her salon, falling at her feet with my hair in tatters (whilst travelling, it did not leave the safety of its bun, hiding from most certain critism).. she set to work her magic. But towards the end, when we arrived at the all important "whats the best shampoo/conditoner system for me?" chat.. she excitedly popped the Morroccan Oil in my hands.

Running 4 pumps of the amber liquid through my damp hair and then another 1 pump post blowdry (to add a glossy effect).. the difference was amazing! I most certainly did buy it (ssshh dont tell my boyfriend).. and have loved it every wash since.

A really worthy investment for dry, dull hair.. I was even given the tip that for when I want to re-buy it- strawberrynet have it for sale online for a whole lot cheaper. IM SOLD!

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Today at work...

Was an interesting day! Having been lucky enough to be apart of our new counter fit out.. now having a counter the same size as Selfridges on Oxford St (largest MAC in the world); we have a makeup studio with 8 stations in which to play makeup with the clients!

My favourite days at work are when Im allocated to be on the studio and so all I have to do is apply amazing makeup looks on those that have booked in and have somewhere special to go! Today I had a number of clients and with all, there seemed to be a common requirement- undereye brightener!

#Fact.. Did you know that the most widely used product backstage at the fashion shows is YSL Touche Eclat? Even when MAC is the brand who provide the makeup teams, product and looks the key artists demand its use.

Like many things in life there is a company/brand/product that is a monopoly.. GHD's, Apple etc etc etc.
And until very recently there has been no product in the market to rival Touche Eclat. Until recently released their Prep & Prime Highlighters... and at half the price with the same effect/result Im so happy they have made my kit all that little bit cheaper to stock! (£17)





Today I used the Bright Forecast for a slightly darker Asian skintone to remove the dark violet toned undereye circles, as so many are prone to; on a lovely girl who was caucasian and needed that Kimmy K undereye effect, I used Radiant Rose; and for a few clients that were quite fair, I used Light Boost.






Dab the product on, after eye makeup has been applied and your foundation is on. Work quickly with it, so as not to let it dry, making it harder to blend. Use a brush that is long and fluffy- a perfect option is the #224. Apply it lightly and in a triangle (as mentioned in previous posts on how to apply underyeye concealer most affectively) from the corner of the eye, to the outer corner and connecting through down to the nose.

So... from what I hear, of late- it hasnt been the Touche Eclat that the key makeup artists have been calling for.

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FAV!

Finally! After lusting over my Tom Ford Black orchid lipstick for so long, I finally snared myself another of his amazingly textured lipsticks in True Coral... Such an amazing pigment payoff and so silky on the lip! yummy..

love me some deep throat..

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Alexa

Fitting timing for a new post- I do so on the day that I discover the exciting news that a lady very close to my fashion style-less heart- Alexa Chung, will be appearing on Vogue UKs June cover.

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But its not only Alexa's fashion style that has me weak at the knees, its also her barely there, quick and simple makeup that has me going! I love her makeup sense, in that she never feels the need to wear too much or too over the top makeup. She works her natural features simply and effectively.

Normally on the eyes she'll line them with a dark brown kohl (know for a fact shes got a major crush on MACs Teddy Kohl Pencil), with the occassional flick. For eyeshadow colours shell tend to stick to earth matte tones, to keep it simple and effective. On the skin she has used La Prairie Cavier Foundation with the creamy concealer on top. This foundation, with a whopping price tag attached is stunning. The caiver means the skin is perfectly illuminated without too much oil in the product to cause patching, lines or giving a cakey look. She teams this product with YSL's Touche Eclat. A perfect combination of a natural looking base, with the highlighter under the eyes for a natural brighter eye.

And with a quick swipe of mascara, and one of two combos- some baby doll pink blush and matching matte lipstick; or a nice ginger blush and a nice red lip.. shes ready to go!

But dont also forget kids that its not only Alexa that knows the benefits of having a really well prepared skin under her makeup. If you ask any fashion makeup artist out there- mua's spend more time preparing the skin before makeup then on the makeup itself. Get yourself into it now, if you havnt already!

I personally use the Creme de la mer oil cleanser, so that I can use it as a double cleanser. For the days that I am wearing makeup (most, if not all ;) ). Once on the dry skin it sloughs away the malkeup, with the oil breaking down everything on the skin..then splash on some warm water to make it react and it kicks into its next stage of cleansing. I then team in with my Clarins Multi- Active day cream and my creme de la mer eye concentrate.

Alexa personally likes Keihls and Dr. Hauschka (organic brand). Both of which are lovely also.

Enjoy x

ORANGE

Makeup artists for the past few years have seen the beauty and freshness in a stunning orange lip, and slowly after lots of persuasion- its finally catching on.

Whether your bold and daring and like to hold some Morange from MAC on the lip; or maybe your not too daring but like the concept- go for Costa Chic or Vegas Volt again by MAC.


Morange by MAC


Vegas Volt by MAC

Either way- this look goes incredibly with most eye colours.. really bringing out blues and greens and well, we all know how you brown eye'd girls can wear just about anything!

If your not so sure about the lips, maybe tryputting a nude colour all over the lid and softly blending a light orange into your crease for a pop of colour. Rule by MAC is amazing or again for those less inclined for strength..rather softness- go for Texture by MAC.



Texture by MAC

For a hot sexy night out with the girls and/or boy try this sexy smokey eye! Take Blacktrack liquid gel liner and paint it onto the lid of the eye.

No higher than the crease and blend it to soften the edge.. let it dry.

Then pack ontop a sexy dark brown.Into the edge of the crease line where this smokey brown colour stops, get your orange and blend it out wards.

What this does is 'grade out' the eye, creating a smouldering look- with that hit of colour. Perfect for those wanting more than the natural, barely there finish. Finish with using a softer orange toned lipstick/gloss and blush.

AND for those wanting to go a lil silly.. heres a look I did for work one day a few weeks back-

But using orange just doesnt end there- today for work (no pics unfort :( ) I used a amber/orange/bronze eyeshadow colour from MAC called Amber Lights (this tapping into the bronze and orange trends) and graded it out with yellow! Doesnt look as scary as it sounds..

Enjoy

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Nail Trends

Whilst Spring/Summer brings a fresh and simple perspective on nail trends, with long, rounded nails with bright pops of colour.. yellows, blues, corals, orange, red..



Product recommendations:

- Zoya in Absolutely Gorgeous (bright yellow)
- MAC in Steamy



- Models Own in Pink Punch (Coral Pink)


Autumn/Winter 11-12 brings a totally different look.. and its going metallic. Darker, denser shades with, if you dare, swirls of opposing tones. Really, a fun twist on a look thats always lurking round dark corners.



Product Recs:


- Nars Nail Lacquer in Desperardo

- MAC's Jeanius Collection Lacquer in Biker Blue

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